Apply Individual Lashes on a Model with Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes present a unique challenge in lash design. The mobile lid folds over the lash line, reducing visible space and affecting how lashes wear and display. While strip lashes can often interfere with the lid fold, individual lashes provide the solution: strategic placement with light control.

“When working with hooded eyes, less lash means more reveal.” — Bouba World

In this blog, we break down the anatomy of hooded eyes and teach a professional, client-tested method for placing individual lash clusters to enhance openness, depth, and lift—without bulk or discomfort.

A prominent brow bone and a fold of skin that partially or fully covers the eyelid

A lash line that may be hidden when eyes are open

Lids may appear puffy, droopy, or textured

Natural lashes often grow straight or downward

Limited lid visibility

Strip lashes can hit the fold and push downward

Excessive curl or volume casts shadows

Client discomfort due to friction or poking

Allow for custom placement

Build lift in specific zones

Avoid bulk in sensitive fold areas

Deliver comfort and long wear for mature or textured lids

Individual lash clusters (short, medium, long; ideally lightweight faux mink)

Latex-free, semi-permanent lash adhesive (clear or dark)

Curved or straight tweezers

Lash tile or silicone pad

Angled mirror

Cotton bud + alcohol-free micellar water

Lash fan (optional)

Bouba World Tip: Use ultra-fine clusters to avoid weighing down the lid. Wispy, not dense.

Use micellar water to gently cleanse the eyelid and lash root

Ensure all makeup and oil are removed

Gently lift lashes using a heated curler or manual tool

Improves blend and lifts the base of the eye

One coat can help bind natural and individual lashes together

Bouba World Insight: On hooded eyes, a curled base supports the illusion of an open lid.

Avoid long or thick fibers at the center—they hit the fold

Focus density and curl at the lash base

Use a staggered length approach to mimic natural lash pattern

Use C curl for softness

Avoid D curl—it can cast shadows on the lid

Place a drop of lash glue on a palette

Let it sit for 20–30 seconds until tacky

Use tweezers to gently lift the lash by its base

Dip the end into the glue lightly—avoid overcoating

Start from the outer third and work inward

Place slightly above the natural lash line (not on skin)

Angle lashes up and outward to lift the eye

Bouba World Note: You’re building a fan—not laying a wall. Airy, directional placement is key.

Outer corner – longest lash first (angled upward)

Build inward – gradually reduce length

Keep spacing natural, not uniform

Step back every 3–4 lashes to assess balance

Avoid placing lashes directly under the brow fold

Stay clear of skin folds—adhesive and discomfort risk

Use a mirror to check how lashes look when eyes are open

Once all clusters are placed, use tweezers to gently pinch natural and false lashes together

Add a micro-layer of mascara (only if lashes are not pre-colored)

Adds bonding strength and helps blend natural lash color

Have the model look straight ahead

Compare spacing, angle, and flare between both eyes

Bouba World Reminder: Symmetry is felt more than seen. Step back for perspective.

Use only short + medium length clusters

Place fewer lashes to keep weight light

Focus on outer corner lift only

Apply more density at the outer half

Use upward placement to open the eye under flash

Apply shimmer shadow below brow bone—not on lid

Do not rub or pull at lashes

Remove with oil-free remover and cotton bud

Clean lashes after use to maintain shape

Store clusters in tray with original curve

Give your client a care card with:

Application date

Removal instructions

Suggested touch-up window (if semi-permanent glue used)

Draw a hooded eye on a face chart

Use pencil to mark where lashes start, rise, and taper

Plot lash lengths and curl angles

Match left and right eye symmetry

Practice on mannequin with one eye closed, one open

Review camera angles for visibility vs. shadow

Practice builds intuition. Mapping builds confidence.

Individual lashes are not just a style—they’re a solution. On hooded eyes, they offer the rare combination of lift, flexibility, and subtlety. Where strip lashes might collapse the lid, individual lashes rise to the occasion.

“With hooded eyes, your canvas is hidden. But your technique reveals it.” — Bouba World

Use the eye’s structure as your guide. Let your lash placement sculpt visibility, comfort, and effortless lift.

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