Avoid Harsh Overhead or Under-Lighting—It Distorts the Face

Lighting in makeup artistry isn’t optional—it’s integral. You can use the finest products and execute flawless technique, but if your lighting is unflattering, your work will fall flat—or worse, appear distorted.

Two of the most common culprits in unflattering beauty visuals are:

Harsh Overhead Lighting

Under-Lighting from Below

Both violate the natural logic of how light interacts with the human face. At Bouba World, we treat lighting as part of the design process—not just the setup.

“Makeup sculpts with product. Lighting sculpts with truth—or illusion.” — Bouba World

Harsh overhead lighting typically comes from:

Ceiling spotlights

Bare bulbs above mirrors

Overhead LED panels without diffusion

Direct sunlight from high noon

Deep, hollow eye sockets

Flattened cheekbones

Harsh shadows under nose, lips, and jaw

Unflattering forehead glare

Texture and pores exaggerated in downward light fall

Bouba World Insight:
“Overhead light doesn’t just shadow—it sinks the face.”

Under-lighting occurs when the main light source is below the face:

Ring lights placed too low

Tabletop lamps shining upward

Reflective surfaces throwing light from below

Flash from phone placed on a desk

Illumination of nostrils

Shadows above brows and on forehead

Phantom lines under chin and jaw

‘Haunted’ or unnatural facial expression

Reversed shadowing (opposite of natural sun)

Pro Tip:
Never light the face primarily from below—unless your goal is avant-garde or theatrical distortion.

Lighting doesn't just alter appearance—it alters perception.

Especially in makeup work, clients associate beauty with realism, clarity, and comfort. Poor lighting disrupts that emotional agreement.

Create raccoon-eye effect and forehead shine.

Fix: Use side-facing LED panels or daylight-balanced ring light slightly above eye level.

Flatten contour and cast shadows under brows.

Fix: Add front-facing fill or softbox at eye-level height.

Makes lips and nostrils appear inflated, chin looks disconnected.

Fix: Mount phone at eye level and use ring light from a slight downward angle.

Light determines how planes of the face are perceived. Proper placement:

Lifts cheekbones

Carves out jawline

Brightens eye area

Flattens unwanted texture gently

Enhances color gradient of makeup products

Improper placement:

Creates false hollows

Overemphasizes pores or fine lines

Throws shadows that misrepresent artistry

Bouba World Note:
“You blended that blush to perfection—don’t let lighting undo your work.”

Always aim for a 45° downward angle to mimic sunlight or diffused daylight. This adds depth without distortion.

Harshness is the enemy of beauty. Even a well-placed light can distort if it’s too sharp or direct.

Softboxes

White umbrellas

Frosted covers

Sheer fabric

Bounce reflectors

Golden Rule:
Hard light = deep shadows and high contrast.
Soft light = gentle falloff and graceful transitions.

Makeup seen under harsh overhead or under-lighting doesn’t reflect the intent or craftsmanship of the application.

While some editorial or creative shoots use overhead or under-lighting for mood or abstraction, these are deliberate exceptions, not foundational choices.

Harsh overhead used to create dystopian shadow play

Under-lighting used for horror or surrealism

Sharp key lights for metallic or wet looks

But for:

Client portfolios

Social content

Product demonstrations

Tutorials
Stick with elevated, soft directional light to avoid distortion.

Clients want to see the truth of your work, not a warped version filtered through bad lighting.

Using distorted lighting:

Misleads viewers about your skill

Confuses potential clients

Makes editing harder and less authentic

Breaks down trust between artist and audience

Bouba World Reminder:
“Lighting is your integrity in pixels.”

Even budget-friendly tweaks can correct most issues.

Step 1: Apply a polished everyday makeup look.
Step 2: Photograph under 3 light positions:

Overhead spotlight

Table lamp (under-lighting)

Softbox angled slightly above eyes

Step 3: Compare:

Eye area brightness

Cheekbone and jaw definition

Lip and contour clarity

Emotional reading of image

Document how light alone changes perception of your skill.

Lighting is not just a technical necessity—it’s a creative commitment. Every angle, every shadow, every highlight speaks on your behalf. When used correctly, light elevates. When misused, it distracts or distorts.

Harsh overhead and under-lighting do more than cast poor shadows—they cast doubt.

“You don't just light a face. You light the feeling behind it.” — Bouba World

Whether you're creating for the camera, the client, or the craft—respect the light. It’s not just what helps people see your work. It’s what makes them believe in it.

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