Hooded Eyes: Lifting Through Lash Design

Hooded eyes possess a hidden elegance. With the crease covered by skin, the eye appears mysterious, soft, and often misunderstood in makeup design. Many lash artists make the mistake of treating hooded eyes like any other, placing strips too low or choosing styles that collapse under the lid fold.

“In hooded eyes, lift is everything—but bulk is your enemy.” — Bouba World

This blog breaks down the structure of hooded eyes, the lash mistakes to avoid, and how to sculpt a lifted, open look through thoughtful lash design.

Natural lid fold that covers part or all of the mobile lid

Less visible crease even when the eyes are open

Often inherited genetically (common across ethnicities)

May increase with age or loss of skin elasticity

Lash roots may point downward or be hidden under fold

Hooded eyes aren’t small—but they’re compressed. Your lash design must create visual space.

Bouba World Insight: Don’t fight the fold—design above it.

Your priorities should be:

Lift at the outer and center zones

Visibility from the front view (not just profile)

Lightweight styles that don’t collapse into the crease

Soft tapering to blend with natural lash direction

Avoiding interference with lid fold movement

Add lift where it’s most needed

Avoid heavy center that presses into fold

Easy to blend with natural lashes

Graduated lengths with natural separation

Maintain visibility without density

Ideal with invisible bands

Allow for customized mapping

Build light volume only where needed

Avoid full-band weight and rigidity

Add vertical lift to drooping or flat lash roots

Stay visible even under hooded skin

Bouba World Tip: Use the lash to lift—not to load.

Apply lash slightly above natural lash line

Focus pressure at outer corner first

Keep inner corner clean or minimal

Use curved tweezers for accurate lift

Bouba World Rule: In hooded eyes, every millimeter counts.

C curl for natural upward lift

D curl for added drama and visibility

Avoid J curl on natural downward-pointing lashes

Band selection is critical. You must use thin, flexible bands that can bend above the lash line without causing pressure.

Invisible clear band

Thin cotton-thread strip

Pre-curved soft bands

Thick black bands

Rigid plastic lash bases

Multi-stack strips with dense roots

Bouba World Insight: A thick band on a hooded lid is like a heavy curtain on a small window—it blocks more than it reveals.

Use soft, breathable fibers to ensure comfort and wearability.

Faux mink for lightweight, natural taper

Silk fibers for a slight sheen without heaviness

Tapered tips to avoid bulkiness under the fold

Plastic lashes with blunt tips

Heavy-duty multi-dimensional fans

Glitter or decorative fibers that weigh the lid down

Bouba World Reminder: Two hooded lids on one face rarely fold the same way. Treat each eye as its own design.

Clients with hooded lids often don’t know why lashes “never look right.” This is your chance to educate.

“We’ll design the lash to open up your eyes, not press them down.”

“Less density will help your crease stay visible.”

“Let’s focus the lift at the outer third for elegance and openness.”

Use mirror demos or photos of angled vs. hooded lash placement to explain the visual difference.

Bouba World Tip: Trust is built when clients realize you see what others overlooked.

Hooded eyes are not limitations—they are opportunities for master-level lash artistry. The fold may hide the lid, but it doesn’t have to hide the lash. With the right design, placement, and materials, you can turn compression into lift, subtlety into structure, and concealment into clarity.

“Design the lash to rise where the skin falls—and your client will see themselves, lifted.” — Bouba World

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