Identifying Top-to-Bottom Lip Imbalance – Bouba World’s Correction Blueprint

In lip design, symmetry is often assumed to be side-to-side. But top-to-bottom balance—the vertical proportion between the upper and lower lips—is just as essential.

An imbalanced lip profile can:

Disrupt facial harmony

Distract from the eyes and bone structure

Undermine the intent of your makeup look

Bouba World teaches artists to see the lips not just in color, but in structure. This guide breaks down:

How to visually detect upper vs. lower lip imbalance

Common types of imbalance

Pro tools for correction

Design strategies that restore natural proportion

The ideal lip balance, according to the Golden Ratio, is:

Upper lip: 1 part

Lower lip: 1.6 parts

This doesn’t mean all lips must follow this formula, but it provides a harmonic reference point—especially in corrective work.

To determine lip balance, use these anatomical anchors:

Base of nose (columella)

Chin point (soft tissue, not bone)

Philtrum length (space between nose and top lip)

Distance between Cupid’s Bow and bottom lip curve

“If the upper lip overtakes the philtrum, or the lower lip outweighs the chin, the eye sees imbalance—even if it can’t say why.”

Features:

Prominent upper lip

Over-rounded Cupid’s Bow

Insufficient lower lip volume

Common Causes:

Overlined upper lip only

Filler misplacement or inflation bias

Over-highlighted Cupid’s Bow

Visual Impact:

Can create a “duck-lip” look

Disrupts mid-face structure

Causes light to reflect unnaturally on the top lip

Features:

Thick or rounded lower lip

Minimal top lip visibility

Shadow pooling under lip line

Common Causes:

Neglected upper lip contour

Bottom gloss buildup

Lack of upper shade lift

Visual Impact:

Draws face downward

Mutes upper facial focus

Breaks harmony with chin and cheekbones

Features:

Flat upper with no arc

Overly rounded or reflective lower lip

Common Causes:

Poor top-line shaping

Misuse of gloss

Shimmer used only on bottom lip

Visual Impact:

Face appears droopy

Youthfulness is lost

Breaks the upward line of the smile

Features:

Compressed philtrum

Long chin-to-neck distance

Causes:

Natural bone structure or aging

Excessive foundation masking top lip

Visual Impact:

Face feels bottom-heavy

Lips look minimized

Disconnected from facial midline

Use a hand-held mirror and view the lips from below chin level. Tilt upward to observe:

Where fullness concentrates

Whether lower lip drops past ideal balance line

Take a forward-facing photo. Overlay a 3-part vertical grid:

Top third = philtrum + upper lip

Middle = lower lip

Bottom = chin

Assess how much visual space each occupies.

Use a brow pencil or brush:

Measure the vertical height of the top lip (Cupid’s Bow to inner vermilion)

Do the same for the lower lip (bottom edge to vermilion center)

Compare the ratio. Aim for 1:1.6, but always customize per client structure.

Line the lower lip slightly beyond its natural edge

Line the upper lip within its edge to scale it back

Use neutral or cool shades to reduce visual puff

Apply contour just under lower lip with a cool matte shadow

Avoid highlighter on Cupid’s Bow

Use matte textures for upper lip to flatten excess roundness

Keep gloss or light shine only in the lower lip center

Use a semi-matte top lip formula

Define peaks with liner and subtle highlighter

Use a brighter tone on upper lip than lower

Avoid bold gloss on bottom lip

Add lighter pop shade to upper lip center

Layer two shades: mid-tone base + lighter top center

Focus lip filler or plumping gloss only on upper area

Blend the bottom lip liner slightly inward to reduce size

Use concealer to narrow the lower edge

Bouba World Tip: When correcting lip imbalance, use texture before filler, and shade before surgery.

Client Profile:

Bottom lip naturally larger

Upper lip lacks volume, appears flat

Initial Observation:

Face appears bottom-weighted

Lip gloss applied only on lower lip

Upper lip underlined

Correction Steps:

Map top lip with precise peaks

Apply soft brown pencil slightly outside top border

Use rose-nude tone on upper lip

Use neutral-matte on lower lip

Apply shimmer gloss only to upper center

Result:

Facial balance restored

Eyes more dominant

Chin visually shortened

Understanding how clients talk about their lips helps you decode imbalance even before mapping:

Before finishing any correction:

Look under soft side lighting: reveals shadow fall and overdraws

Flash photo test: catches highlight imbalance or gloss buildup

Distance check: stand 2 meters away—are lips a distraction or a frame?

Photograph 5 different lip shapes

Measure top-to-bottom ratio with digital grid

Sketch proposed corrections on lip charts

Apply designs and photograph results

Note lighting and emotional impact per look

Track results in a Lip Structure Journal to build visual instinct.

“The lips are the gate to the face. If the gate is lopsided, the whole house feels off.”

“Top-to-bottom balance matters more than boldness. Volume should support structure—not replace it.”

“One gloss pass too many, and your bottom lip outweighs your bone structure.”

“Symmetry is honesty. Your technique is how you tell the truth beautifully.”

Lips are not just a space to paint—they are a core part of facial engineering. When top and bottom are out of sync, the rest of the face has to compensate.

So whether you’re working with a model, client, or yourself:

Stop chasing trends

Start seeing structure

And let balance be your signature

Your lip work will speak volumes—before the client even opens theirs.

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