Lashes 101 — Apply Like a Pro

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Overview

False lashes can elevate a look—or ruin it. When applied incorrectly, they overpower the eyes, distort the shape, or cause discomfort. But when applied with intentionality and skill, they enhance the eye’s natural beauty, balance symmetry, and elevate the entire face.

Lashes 101 — Apply Like a Pro is designed to give artists the tools they need to master lash application—not as a shortcut to glamour, but as a technical craft rooted in precision and respect for natural anatomy.

Course Objectives

By the end of this course, participants will be able to:

Identify lash types and their best use cases

Measure and trim lashes for proper fit and comfort

Apply glue correctly and understand drying behavior

Apply strip and individual lashes based on various eye shapes

Design lash looks that enhance—not overpower—the eyes

Confidently adjust techniques for mature, sensitive, or uneven lids

Key Topics Covered

Lash Types and When to Use Each

1. Full Band Lashes

Great for clients needing maximum enhancement

Best suited for almond and symmetrical eyes

Can overpower small or round eyes if not trimmed

2. Individual Clusters

Best for custom shaping and natural enhancement

Ideal for hooded, mature, or asymmetrical lids

Easier to control density and spacing

3. Corner or Half Lashes

Used to lift drooping outer corners

Adds definition without heavy drama

Works well on deep-set and downward-sloping eyes

Bouba World Tip: Never choose lashes by trend. Choose based on eye anatomy, occasion, and the emotional tone of the makeup look.

Lash Anatomy & Material Types

Band thickness: Thin = flexible and comfortable; Thick = bold but harder to bend

Fiber types: Synthetic, silk, faux mink, real hair

Curl types: Natural curl (J/C) vs dramatic (D curl)

Weight and density: Consider natural lashes’ ability to support them

Artists must understand lash structure just like they understand brow hair direction or lip shape.

Measuring and Trimming Lashes

Step 1: Dry Fit

Place the lash strip along the lash line without glue

Align from outer to inner corner, keeping it slightly above the natural lash root

Step 2: Trim

Always trim from the outer end, unless the style is symmetrical

Cut in small increments—not all at once

Avoid trimming too much—leaving gaps at the inner eye can break continuity

Step 3: Customize

Some clients benefit from shortened inner corners, especially if they experience poking or sensitivity

Trim individuals to create staggered lengths for realism

Glue Types and Drying Time

Lash Adhesives

Clear glue: Best for beginners or natural looks

Dark glue: Blends with liner but requires precision

Latex-free options: For sensitive or allergic clients

Proper Application

Apply a thin, even line across the band

Wait 30–45 seconds for the glue to become tacky—this is crucial for placement control

Use a curved applicator or tweezer for accuracy

Bouba World Note: Too-wet glue = slipping. Too-dry glue = won’t stick.
Tacky glue = perfect grip.

Application by Eye Shape

1. Almond Eyes

Naturally balanced and symmetrical

Most lash styles work well

Emphasize natural curve; avoid super-long center spikes

2. Round Eyes

Add length to outer corners for elongation

Avoid lashes with a high center lift—can make eyes look startled

Use wispy styles that taper at both ends

3. Droopy or Downturned Eyes

Use corner lashes or styles that fan upward

Focus lift at outer corners

Never use lashes that droop at the ends—it accentuates the downward tilt

4. Mature Eyes

Use lightweight, flexible bands only

Avoid heavy density or full volume

Corner or individual lashes allow for better adjustment around texture or hooding

Apply slightly above the lash line to avoid lid fold interference

5. Hooded Eyes

Choose shorter lash lengths that won’t brush the brow bone

Focus density at the base, not at the tip

Avoid curls that cast shadows on the lid

Application Techniques & Tools

Tools of the Trade

Lash tweezers

Curved applicator

Angled mirror for client

Cotton bud + alcohol-free micellar water

Precision scissors

Application Process

Curl natural lashes

Apply a light coat of mascara to bind natural and false lashes

Fit the lash

Set the outer corner first, then press inwards

Use applicator to gently push lash into place

Press natural lashes and false lashes together

For individuals: Start from the outer corner, working inward

Vary length for realism

Blend into natural lash map—not just lash line

Comfort, Longevity & Touch-Ups

Teach clients how to remove lashes gently without pulling

Recommend oil-free remover

Advise against sleeping or showering with lashes

Offer lash care cards for long events (weddings, shoots)

Practice Labs

Practice Lab 1: Lash Shape Mapping

Draw five different eye shapes on a face chart

Design appropriate lash styles for each

Mark where lash length should start, peak, and taper

Practice Lab 2: Live Application Demo

Apply full band lashes on a model with almond eyes

Apply corner lashes on a model with downturned eyes

Apply individual lashes on a model with hooded eyes

Practice Lab 3: Glue Timing Drill

Apply glue to 5 bands at once

Practice placing each one at various tacky stages

Observe slipping, lifting, or gripping behavior

Real-World Scenarios

Bridal

Lightweight full band with tapered outer ends

Glue applied slightly above lash line to prevent tear disturbance

Tacky hold, sealed with liner after dry-down

Editorial

Custom lash layering: band + individuals at outer edge

Lash designed to complement the winged liner, not compete with it

Lashes trimmed to avoid casting shadows under flash

Mature Client

Individual lashes with staggered placement

Lightweight adhesive + flexible lash spine

Lift applied with emphasis on lid fold spacing

Course Duration

Total Time: 4 hours

Format: Video demos, practice drills, downloadable face charts

Assessment: Apply 3 lash styles on 3 different eye shapes

Certification: Bouba World Lash Application Certificate (included)

Learning Outcomes

Upon completion, participants will be able to:

Apply lashes based on eye shape, not trend

Trim and fit lashes precisely

Use glue timing for maximum hold and comfort

Choose lash types that flatter, lift, and enhance

Confidently teach clients aftercare and removal tips

Final Thoughts from Bouba World

Lashes aren’t one-size-fits-all. They’re not decoration—they’re design.

True lash artistry doesn’t rely on drama. It relies on discipline, proportion, and anatomical respect.
Every lash choice must answer the same question:
Does this shape honor the eye beneath it?

With the right application, you don’t just add lashes—you awaken the gaze.

 

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