Placement Techniques by Face Shape

Makeup artists often ask, “What products should I use?” But the real question should be, “Where do I place them?”

Effective makeup isn’t about copying trends—it’s about enhancing structure. And your canvas always starts with one essential framework: face shape.

“When you sculpt with intention, every face becomes a custom masterpiece.” — Bouba World

This blog walks through placement strategies for each major face shape, covering contour, blush, and highlight techniques that harmonize features rather than hide them.

Each face shape influences:

Where shadows naturally fall

Where light should be added

How features connect visually

What areas need lifting, softening, or balancing

Makeup becomes effective when it respects these proportions—not when it fights them.

Oval – Balanced length and width, softly curved

Round – Equal length and width, soft jaw and cheek

Square – Strong jawline, broad forehead

Heart – Wider forehead, tapered chin

Long – Elongated face, narrow width

Diamond – Narrow forehead and chin, wide cheekbones

Each shape requires different contour, highlight, and blush strategies.

Goal: Maintain proportion, gently enhance bone structure

Light contour under cheekbones

Slight shading along jawline

Center of forehead

Bridge of nose

Above cheekbones

Apply diagonally across the cheeks

Blend upward toward temples

Tip: Don’t over-contour—oval faces already have balance.

Goal: Add dimension and elongate the face visually

Sides of the forehead

Under cheekbones, blended toward ear

Jawline to sharpen edges

Center of the forehead

Vertical line down nose

Center of chin

Apply high on cheekbone, angled upward

Avoid applying on apples of cheeks directly

Mistake to Avoid: Circular blush placement—it enhances roundness.

Goal: Add softness and curve to strong angles

Corners of jawline to round them

Sides of the forehead

Under cheekbones but blend softly

Center of forehead

Above cheekbones

Center of chin to soften the lower third

Rounded on apples, then swept upward

Blend into contour without harsh lines

Bouba World Note: Avoid straight lines—opt for circular motions to soften structure.

Goal: Minimize upper width and fill out lower face

Temples and forehead edges to reduce width

Light shadow under cheekbone—do not extend to mouth

Avoid contouring jawline heavily

Chin and lower jaw

Bridge of nose

Subtle glow above brows

Focus on outer cheeks

Blend horizontally rather than diagonally

Pro Tip: Avoid adding shimmer near the temples—it widens the forehead more.

Goal: Visually reduce face length, widen features subtly

Top of forehead (hairline)

Under chin and jawline

No need to contour cheekbones heavily

Cheekbones, avoiding vertical highlight

Center of chin sparingly

Sides of face to reflect width

Apply horizontally across the cheeks

Focus more on the apples, blend outward not upward

Mistake to Avoid: Long vertical highlight—adds more length.

Goal: Soften cheek width and emphasize narrower forehead and chin

Outer cheekbone to narrow width

Slight jaw contour to create roundness

Forehead center

Tip of chin

Above cheekbones for lift

Apply on top of cheekbones, not below

Sweep back toward hairline

Bouba World Technique: Avoid contouring too close to the nose—keeps center open.

Bouba World Insight: Proper placement is more important than product price.

Draw 6 face shapes on a face chart

Use colored pencils or markers to map:

Contour (grey/brown)

Highlight (yellow/peach)

Blush (pink/coral)

Label brushes and products used

Compare how placement shifts with face structure

On a real model:

Choose a face shape

Apply mapped plan

Photograph before/after

Observe if the face appears more lifted, symmetrical, or slimmed

Bouba World Reminder: Map, then apply—don’t guess.

Every face is a different canvas. When you understand placement by shape, you create more than makeup—you create balance, lift, and power.

“No one wants a copy-paste face. Shape-based placement brings artistry to life.” — Bouba World

So before you reach for that contour stick, stop and ask: What shape am I working with? That question turns a makeup artist into a true sculptor.

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