Understanding Overtones vs Undertones in Blondes, Brunettes, Redheads, and Grey Hair

When matching brows, designing makeup, or even selecting fashion colors, artists often go by what they see. But the surface color of hair—known as the overtone—can be deceiving.

To work like a true artist, you need to see what’s underneath: the undertone, the deeper pigment that shapes how color interacts with skin, light, and product.

Bouba World Philosophy:

“Overtone is what people show. Undertone is what tells the truth.”

This blog will guide you through identifying and working with overtones and undertones in blondes, brunettes, redheads, and grey hair, and show you how to make artistic decisions with greater precision and professionalism.

The visible color you immediately perceive—what’s reflected to the eye, especially in daylight or photographs.

Created by surface pigments, dye, or sun lightening

Changes with exposure, environment, and product buildup

Can shift dramatically with styling or lighting

The underlying pigment beneath the hair’s surface—responsible for warmth, coolness, and how hair complements skin and makeup.

More stable and less visible at first glance

Affects color harmony with brows, blush, foundation

Guides realistic brow design and tone matching

Bouba World Tip:

“Never match brow or base makeup to overtone alone—it will trick you.”

Look at the hair in direct sunlight and shade. Overtone reflects light, while undertone emerges in shadow or at the roots.

Roots often reveal the true undertone, especially if the hair is dyed or highlighted.

As hair dye fades, the undertone often takes over—watch for brassiness, ash, or red emergence.

Platinum

Golden blonde

Beige

Strawberry blonde

Cool blondes: Ash, silvery, smoky beige

Warm blondes: Gold, honey, champagne

Neutral blondes: Beige or sand tones

Platinum can have a blue or violet undertone (cool)

Strawberry blonde often carries peachy or copper undertones

Golden blonde’s overtone may look bright but hides yellow or orange undertones

Brow Matching Tips:

Use taupe or ash brown for cool blondes

Use soft mocha or light warm brown for golden tones

Avoid red-brown unless working with strawberry blonde

Medium brown

Dark chocolate

Espresso

Golden brown

Cool brunettes: Ash, espresso, black-blue

Warm brunettes: Chestnut, golden brown, reddish-brown

Neutral brunettes: Soft brown, mushroom, cocoa

Espresso may look neutral but carry a blue-black undertone

Golden brown often reveals orange or copper under warm light

Medium browns can be balanced or lean toward warmth with fade

Brow Matching Tips:

Cool undertones = ash brown, taupe

Warm undertones = mocha, chocolate, chestnut

Neutral = soft brown with adaptable tint gels

Copper

Auburn

Strawberry

Mahogany

Cool reds: Blue-red, burgundy

Warm reds: Orange, copper, peach

Neutral reds: Soft terracotta, muted auburn

Strawberry and copper can have golden undertones even with bright overtones

Mahogany appears cool but may oxidize warm

Auburn often balances both worlds

Brow Matching Tips:

Don’t use orange-based pencils—opt for auburn, terracotta, or mocha

Cool red hair? Use neutral browns with a red-tinted gel

Warm red hair? Use soft warm brown, chestnut, or caramel

Silver

Salt-and-pepper

White

Smoky grey

Cool greys: Blue-silver, steel

Warm greys: Yellow-grey, mushroom, ivory

Neutral greys: Beige-grey, dusty silver

Grey may appear white but reflect blue or yellow undertones

Root areas often show cooler undertones than ends

White hair can throw off warm-toned makeup if not balanced

Brow Matching Tips:

Avoid jet black or harsh contrast

Use soft ash brown, taupe, or neutral greys

Add warmth via brow gel if client prefers softer balance

Key Principle:

Undertones influence facial harmony—overtone is just the first impression.

Collect printed swatches of hair types (real or photo)

Label visible overtone

Identify undertone through shade, light reflection, and root observation

Choose ideal brow tone for each

Add compatible blush and lip suggestions based on undertone

Compare with actual model photos to test harmony

Repeat across skin types to reinforce application skills.

Bouba World Tip:

“Correct tone—not color. Tone controls mood.”

Client:
Dyed platinum blonde, natural taupe brow, neutral skin

Challenge:
Brow color clashed with icy hair; face felt washed out

Solution:

Added warmth to brows with caramel gel

Applied beige blush to lift tone

Highlighted inner eyes to soften contrast

Result:
Client’s hair popped, but her face led the look, not her dye.

“Hair speaks loudly, but undertone whispers the truth.”

If you’re designing brows—or a face—you need to know when to look past the surface. Overtones are dynamic, expressive, and sometimes misleading. Undertones are your guide to precision, balance, and natural artistry.

Remember:

Always check light

Start with the root

Adjust tone before depth

And trust the undertone—it always knows

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